Piazza del Popolo and Via Margutta: audio walk in Rome

Rome's northern gate and the street where the artists lived: Nero and his devils, a queen who made a triumphal entry, two churches pretending to be twins, Goethe in disguise, Fellini, Picasso in love and a partisan painter called Giordano Bruno.

1.08 km · ≈ 46 min · 12 stops · ES / EN

Piazza del Popolo and Via Margutta

What this walk is about

For centuries, almost everyone arriving in Rome from the north came in through this gate. You start where, according to a legend a pilgrim heard in 1452, Nero's devils lived in a walnut tree. You'll see the gate Bernini reworked for a queen without a throne, a memorial stone that argues with the records, two churches pretending to be identical, and the corner where a woman was born who went on to run a revolutionary newspaper in Naples. Goethe tells you about the carnival on the Corso. Then you turn into Via Margutta: Fellini the cartoonist before he was Fellini, the painter who shared his name with the philosopher of Campo de' Fiori and died for freedom, the house from Roman Holiday, and the studio where Picasso worked on a ballet and fell in love. You finish at the Babuino, the statue so ugly it renamed a street, and the workshop that trades on Canova's name, a short walk from the Spanish Steps.

Start
The devils in the walnut tree
Finish
The studio that wasn't Canova's
Who it is for
A walk for anyone curious about art, film and remarkable characters. You don’t need any prior knowledge.
Languages
Spanish and British English
Underfoot
The walk is mostly level. There are cobbles or uneven surfaces.
Themes
Legends and mysteriesPopes, power and punishmentThe 20th century: war, memory and La Dolce VitaArtists, travellers and film

The route, stop by stop

An outline of the walk. The full stories are in the app.

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Open a marker to see its page. Use two fingers to move the map on mobile.

  1. 1

    The devils in the walnut tree

  2. 2

    The queen who entered in triumph

  3. 3

    Without evidence, says the inscription

  4. 4

    The twin churches that aren't twins

  5. 5

    The girl who became a revolutionary editor

  6. 6

    The baron across the street

  7. 7

    Caricatures for soldiers

  8. 8

    The painter called Giordano Bruno

  9. 9

    Joe Bradley's apartment

  10. 10

    Picasso, a ballet and Olga

  11. 11

    The statue called the Baboon

  12. 12

    The studio that wasn't Canova's

Walking directions are based on mapped pedestrian routes. Check local access and signs; the route is not an accessibility guarantee. Times are approximate.

Rome, before you go

Rome calls for a water bottle, reliable shoes and room for a detour. Its squares link up on foot; the hills and sunshine decide how many you will enjoy in a day.

More walks nearby

Good to know

Nyhavn canal, Copenhagen
What is Podtour?

An app for self-guided audio walks. Choose a city and a route, then listen to the stories behind its streets. You decide when to start and when to stop.

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