
The Pantheon, the Minerva and Piazza Colonna
Galileo before the Inquisition and the Pantheon turned into a church connect religious authority, people and the uses of the ancient city.
How did the popes rule the city, and whom did they punish?
7 walks with different starting points and stories. Compare their maps, stops and duration, then choose where to begin.
Explore these walks
The popes also governed a city, making decisions that reached squares, castles and neighbourhoods. These walks follow that power and its consequences: how it was displayed, how justice was administered and who felt its limits. They offer a way through Rome centred on the relationship between religious authority, urban life and particular people.
In “Rome's Ghetto and Tiber Island”: Forced sermons and the story of Beatrice Cenci bring the consequences of power into the lives of the neighbourhood.
In “Pantheon, Minerva and Piazza Colonna”: Galileo before the Inquisition and the Pantheon turned into a church connect religious authority, people and the uses of the ancient city.
In “From the Quirinale to Via Veneto”: Twentieth-century Rome, uphill: the palace of popes, kings and presidents, the king who lasted a month, the street where the Resistance struck in 1944 and that has no plaque, and the Via Veneto that Fellini copied on a film set… minus the hill.
Choose from 7 independent walks in Rome. Open the one that interests you to see its map, stops and approximate duration before deciding. You don't need to do them all or follow this selection's order; each walk has its own starting and finishing points.
Open a marker to see its page. Use two fingers to move the map on mobile.

Galileo before the Inquisition and the Pantheon turned into a church connect religious authority, people and the uses of the ancient city.

Forced sermons and the story of Beatrice Cenci bring the consequences of power into the lives of the neighbourhood.

You walk down Via Panisperna past a joke on a gridiron, a street name that smells of ham and an invisible pig that a pope said had been driven out of a church.

Caravaggio, Pasquino and Giordano Bruno: a painter whose pictures were turned down, a mutilated statue that mocked the popes, and a philosopher who heard his sentence in Navona and died in Campo de' Fiori.

You'll see the gate Bernini reworked for a queen without a throne, a memorial stone that argues with the records, two churches pretending to be identical, and the corner where a woman was born who went on to run a revolutionary newspaper in Naples.

Twentieth-century Rome, uphill: the palace of popes, kings and presidents, the king who lasted a month, the street where the Resistance struck in 1944 and that has no plaque, and the Via Veneto that Fellini copied on a film set… minus the hill.

In 1527 a pope fled along the passage on top of the wall.
Rome calls for a water bottle, reliable shoes and room for a detour. Its squares link up on foot; the hills and sunshine decide how many you will enjoy in a day.
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