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The Caelian and the Circus Maximus
The former location of the Axum obelisk opens a twentieth-century reading among the ancient layers of the Caelian and Circus.
The 20th century: war, memory and La Dolce Vita in Rome: audio walks
What did modern Rome tear down, live through and remember?
5 walks with different starting points and stories. Compare their maps, stops and duration, then choose where to begin.
Explore these walksTwentieth-century Rome changed streets and perspectives, suffered war and produced new images of itself. This theme connects those changes with remembrance and with the city associated with La Dolce Vita. The walks move between large urban projects and particular local stories, rather than treating every modern episode as part of the same narrative.
In “The Caelian and the Circus Maximus”: The former location of the Axum obelisk opens a twentieth-century reading among the ancient layers of the Caelian and Circus.
In “The Imperial Forums and the Colosseum”: The avenue that erased a neighbourhood lets you view the forums through the demolitions and urban decisions of modern Rome.
In “Castel Sant'Angelo and St Peter's”: Via della Conciliazione connects today's approach to the Vatican with a major twentieth-century urban transformation.
Choose from 5 independent walks in Rome. Open the one that interests you to see its map, stops and approximate duration before deciding. You don't need to do them all or follow this selection's order; each walk has its own starting and finishing points.
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The Imperial Forums and the Colosseum
The avenue that erased a neighbourhood lets you view the forums through the demolitions and urban decisions of modern Rome.
Piazza del Popolo and Via Margutta
You'll see the gate Bernini reworked for a queen without a throne, a memorial stone that argues with the records, two churches pretending to be identical, and the corner where a woman was born who went on to run a revolutionary newspaper in Naples.
From the Quirinale to Via Veneto
Twentieth-century Rome, uphill: the palace of popes, kings and presidents, the king who lasted a month, the street where the Resistance struck in 1944 and that has no plaque, and the Via Veneto that Fellini copied on a film set… minus the hill.
Castel Sant'Angelo and St Peter's Square
Via della Conciliazione connects today's approach to the Vatican with a major twentieth-century urban transformation.
Rome, before you go
Rome calls for a water bottle, reliable shoes and room for a detour. Its squares link up on foot; the hills and sunshine decide how many you will enjoy in a day.
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