The Upper Albaicín: from San Nicolás to the Puerta de Elvira: audio walk in Granada

Thirteen stops, all downhill: a mosque hidden in a courtyard, an unarmed archbishop facing an uprising, the viewpoint and its sunset, a gate nobody wanted to open, a forger of Roman ruins, the house of the Lady, Boabdil made king for the second time, and the bookseller of the Puerta de Elvira.

1.63 km · ≈ 54 min · 13 stops · ES / EN

The Upper Albaicín: from San Nicolás to the Puerta de Elvira

What this walk is about

There's more to the Albaicín than the viewpoint. You start in the Plaza del Salvador, in the courtyard where the quarter used to pray, which outlived both the mosque and the fire, and in the little square where, in 1499, an uprising was stopped by an archbishop on foot, carrying nothing but a cross. From San Nicolás you look across at the Alhambra and take apart the most famous sunset in the world. You walk down through the square that was emptied when the Moriscos were taken away, pass the gate a prophecy kept shut, and reach the little square where a cleric planted fake ruins. You carry on past the citadel of the Zirid kings and the house of the Lady, hear how Boabdil was recognised as king for the second time just round the corner, look for the horseman who turned with the wind, and leave through the Puerta de Elvira, where a poor bookseller sold to the day labourers before the city took him for a madman.

Start
A mosque hidden in a courtyard
Finish
The bookseller at the Puerta de Elvira
Who it is for
For anyone looking for the Albaicín beyond the viewpoint. For people interested in al-Andalus and the Moriscos.
Languages
Spanish and British English
Underfoot
The walk has slopes or changes in level. There are cobbles or uneven surfaces. The route notes mention stairs or steps on the walk or its approaches.
Themes
After 1492: Conversion, Revolt and ExpulsionLegends and MysteriesMoorish Granada Still Standing

The route, stop by stop

An outline of the walk. The full stories are in the app.

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  1. 1

    A mosque hidden in a courtyard

  2. 2

    The unarmed archbishop in the square

  3. 3

    Two towers on the same hill

  4. 4

    The sunset you can't see

  5. 5

    How names are invented

  6. 6

    The rope on the eve of St John's Day

  7. 7

    The gate nobody wanted to open

  8. 8

    The forger of Placeta de las Minas

  9. 9

    The Lady's house

  10. 10

    Boabdil, king again in the Albaicín

  11. 11

    The horseman who turned with the wind

  12. 12

    The gate of the threshing floors

  13. 13

    The bookseller at the Puerta de Elvira

Walking directions are based on mapped pedestrian routes. Check local access and signs; the route is not an accessibility guarantee. Times are approximate.

Granada, before you go

Check the slope before joining two dots on the map. Good shoes, breaks and one neighbourhood at a time keep Granada’s hills from taking over the whole trip.

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Good to know

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