
The Alhambra from Outside: Hill, Woods and Gates
You don't need a ticket to start understanding the Alhambra.
Twelve stops through the Realejo and the Mauror: a façade with muskets and a pierced heart, the boy the Jesuits turned down, a hidden Arab doorway, a washerwoman's son, the Jewish quarter that was erased, a square built for jousts, the gibbet post called the Niño del Rollo, and some red towers nobody knew who had built.

The Realejo is a living neighbourhood that keeps few stones and a great many stories. You begin in front of the Casa de los Tiros, with its stone muskets and a motto in which the heart gives the orders, and you meet the Nasrid family that changed sides and went to court for a century over the Generalife. In the house next door Francisco Suárez must have been born: the boy the Jesuits turned down as unpromising, who became one of the most influential philosophers of his time. You go on past an Arab doorway that a buyer found by chance, the convent where Napoleon's soldiers melted down the iron grilles, and the tenement yard where a washerwoman's son was born, a friar and writer whose works were translated as far afield as Japanese. In the Placeta del Realejo you ask, honestly, whether this really was the Jewish quarter and why nothing of it is left. You climb to the Campo del Príncipe, to the post with cages that gave an alley its name and to the Torres Bermejas, and you finish in the Placeta de la Puerta del Sol, at a lost gate of the Mauror.
An outline of the walk. The full stories are in the app.
Open a marker to see its page. Use two fingers to move the map on mobile.
Walking directions are based on mapped pedestrian routes. Check local access and signs; the route is not an accessibility guarantee. Times are approximate.
Check the slope before joining two dots on the map. Good shoes, breaks and one neighbourhood at a time keep Granada’s hills from taking over the whole trip.

You don't need a ticket to start understanding the Alhambra.

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The Carrera del Darro is narrow, beautiful and full of stories told in a low voice.

An app for self-guided audio walks. Choose a city and a route, then listen to the stories behind its streets. You decide when to start and when to stop.
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