The Caelian and the Circus Maximus: audio walk in Rome

From Rome's quiet hill down to its biggest stadium: a marble ship, the ransom of Cervantes, a saint who ended up in Spain, Agrippina's mushrooms, an obelisk that went back to Ethiopia, and Ovid's advice on flirting at the races.

1.3 km · ≈ 49 min · 12 stops · ES / EN

The Caelian and the Circus Maximus

What this walk is about

On the Caelian there's hardly any traffic, and a great many questions. You start in front of a marble ship that nobody can explain, sitting on top of a hill. Beneath a Roman arch, a mosaic of two slaves leads you to the friars who paid Cervantes' ransom, and to a founder whose body was spirited away to Spain. Beside Santi Giovanni e Paolo stands the platform of the temple Agrippina raised to the husband she poisoned, according to one version recorded by Suetonius; underneath, the Roman houses that tradition gives to two martyrs. Along the Clivo di Scauro, the remains of the library with which a learned cleric hoped Rome could rival the East. At San Gregorio, the legend of some boys up for sale and some very frightened monks. Further down, the corner where, according to a late chronicle, an African emperor set out to impress his countrymen, the square where the Axum obelisk once stood, and the Circus Maximus: Ovid flirting in the stands and Pompey's elephants.

Start
A ship on a hill
Finish
Pompey's elephants and the missing obelisks
Who it is for
For anyone interested in ancient Rome, everyday life and stories of things that came and went. A walk for anyone curious about Spanish connections (Cervantes, John of Matha). You don’t need any prior knowledge.
Languages
Spanish and British English
Underfoot
The walk has slopes or changes in level. There are cobbles or uneven surfaces. The route notes mention stairs or steps on the walk or its approaches.
Themes
Ancient RomeLegends and mysteriesThe 20th century: war, memory and La Dolce VitaNeighbourhoods and local life

The route, stop by stop

An outline of the walk. The full stories are in the app.

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  1. 1

    A ship on a hill

  2. 2

    The price of a captive

  3. 3

    The saint who went to Spain

  4. 4

    Agrippina's mushrooms

  5. 5

    The house beneath the church

  6. 6

    A library to rival the East

  7. 7

    The gift of a house and some frightened monks

  8. 8

    Angels in the marketplace

  9. 9

    A façade for Africa

  10. 10

    The obelisk returned to Ethiopia

  11. 11

    Flirting at the Circus Maximus

  12. 12

    Pompey's elephants and the missing obelisks

Walking directions are based on mapped pedestrian routes. Check local access and signs; the route is not an accessibility guarantee. Times are approximate.

Rome, before you go

Rome calls for a water bottle, reliable shoes and room for a detour. Its squares link up on foot; the hills and sunshine decide how many you will enjoy in a day.

More walks nearby

Good to know

Nyhavn canal, Copenhagen
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