
Kreuzberg SO 36: from Kottbusser Tor to the Wall
You start at Kottbusser Tor, a city gate that no longer exists, where workers from Turkey arrived when the Wall left Kreuzberg on the edge.
The most painted stretch of the Wall in the world had its back to the West: the border was the river. Murals with a story, a Catalan artist who wrote about love, a kiss that wasn't about love, a turreted bridge that was once a customs post and a crossing on foot, and the riverbank where five children drowned and nobody could jump in.

You start in Stralauer Platz, in front of a piece of the first Wall, the one built from blocks. Soon come Ignasi Blanch's mural in Catalan and the CV painted by a former political prisoner. Then you find out why this wall was painted on the eastern side: the West began on the far bank, and Mühlenstraße was the avenue for official visits. You walk the gallery that 118 artists painted in a single summer, with the bridge the Wehrmacht blew up, the factory of a deported neighbour, the people who tried to swim across the river, the neighbours who moved into the border strip after the fall, and the Brezhnev and Honecker kiss, which was a formal greeting. At the end you cross the Oberbaum Bridge, with its tree trunk against smugglers and its Calatrava span, and finish on the Kreuzberg bank, where the border was the water.
An outline of the walk. The full stories are in the app.
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Walking directions are based on mapped pedestrian routes. Check local access and signs; the route is not an accessibility guarantee. Times are approximate.
Berlin alternates broad avenues, courtyards and neighbourhoods with lives of their own. Walk each area slowly and use transport between them: several good walks make more sense than one marathon.

You start at Kottbusser Tor, a city gate that no longer exists, where workers from Turkey arrived when the Wall left Kreuzberg on the edge.

You start in front of Marx and Engels, who no longer face the way people say they do, and a Red Town Hall that isn't red because it's communist, and whose chronicle in stone was rebuilt from photographs lent by ordinary Berliners.

You start on a corner where the streets are named after French cities, and you find out why.

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