Where is Cervantes buried?

The short answer: in Madrid, in the church of a convent of Discalced Trinitarian nuns, the Trinitarias Descalzas, which stands in Calle de Lope de Vega at the heart of the Barrio de las Letras, the literary quarter. That's where he asked to be buried, and that's where he was buried, in April 1616. What nobody can tell you is which of the bones there are his. The church was rebuilt, the remains were moved and the grave was lost. In 2015 a forensic team found the mixed-up bones of seventeen people in the crypt of the present church and concluded, very cautiously, that some of the fragments may belong to Cervantes. There's no DNA proof.

Brick front of the Trinitarias convent on Calle de Lope de Vega, in Madrid's Barrio de las Letras

When and where did Cervantes die?

He died at home on Calle del León, a stone's throw from the convent, on 22 April 1616. If you've seen the 23rd, there's a reason. The register of deaths of the parish of San Sebastián records him under 23 April, but what it actually noted was the date of the burial.

That entry, first published in 1749, runs to just a few lines. It says he was married to Catalina de Salazar, lived on Calle del León and received the last rites, and that he had asked to be buried with the Trinitarian nuns. He left money for two Masses for his soul. His executors were his widow and a priest, Francisco Martínez, chaplain of that very convent and, a nice neighbourhood touch, the son of his landlord.

The house is gone. It was demolished in 1833 because it was falling down, and the Madrid chronicler Ramón de Mesonero Romanos says an article of his prompted King Ferdinand VII to try to buy it. When the owner refused, the king had a medallion put on the front of the new building.

Why was he buried with the Trinitarians?

Because he chose to, and, by all appearances, out of gratitude. In his youth, Cervantes had been held captive in Algiers for five years, and the Trinitarian order secured his release. The plaque on the front of the convent says as much in its own words: he lies there by his last wish, in the house of the order to which he chiefly owed his rescue.

It was also handy. The convent, founded in 1609 according to Mesonero by Juana Gaitán, daughter of General Julián Romero, was just round the corner from his house. A very short last journey.

Why was Cervantes' grave lost?

Because the church he was buried in isn't the one you see there. Later on, the convent built a new church, and the remains from the old one were moved into it. The sources can't even agree on when: some put the move between 1673 and 1698, others a little later. Somewhere along the way, Cervantes' grave stopped having a known place.

There was also an old doubt. Mesonero records that Navarrete, a painstaking biographer of Cervantes, wondered whether he might have been buried somewhere else: the nuns used to say they'd lived for a few years on Calle del Humilladero while their convent was being built. The dates settled it. According to Madoz's great nineteenth-century gazetteer, the nuns were on Calle de Cantarranas, now Calle de Lope de Vega, from 1609 until 1639, and only then moved away for a while. In 1616, in other words, they were in Cantarranas.

Who went looking for Cervantes' remains?

The first serious attempt came from Joseph Bonaparte. In 1809 he ordered a search so the remains could be moved to a mausoleum for illustrious men. According to Mesonero, the job went to the architect Silvestre Pérez and the doctors Luzuriaga and Morejón. They found nothing. There was another try in 1870, also without luck, and the matter then lay dormant for almost a century and a half.

In 2014 a team led by the forensic anthropologist Francisco Etxeberria, with the geophysicist Luis Avial, went into the church with ground-penetrating radar. The first breakthrough turned out to be a false alarm: in January 2015 a coffin marked with the initials M. C. turned up in the crypt, but the remains inside weren't his. The real lead came from a city archivist, Francisco Marín Perellón: if the old church had been demolished, so had its crypt, so they needed to look in the new one.

In the crypt of the present church they found a reduction, a deposit where bones from several old graves had been gathered together. There were fragments of seventeen people, probably including Catalina de Salazar, his wife. On 17 March 2015 the team presented its findings: taking all the historical, archaeological and anthropological evidence together, it was possible that some of those fragments were Cervantes'. There were, Etxeberria said, many points of agreement and no discrepancies. But the decisive test, DNA, was still missing, and a match was always going to be difficult.

So is he there or not?

The honest answer comes in two parts. Yes: Cervantes is buried with the Trinitarians, because that's where he was taken and there's no record of him ever being moved out. No: nobody can put his name to any particular bone. His remains, if they're there, are mixed in with other people's.

After the find, the church gave him a memorial bearing lines from his last novel, the Persiles. And inside the convent, another plaque records that Cervantes, his wife and Sister Marcela de San Félix all lie there. Marcela was a daughter of the playwright Lope de Vega, and a nun in that convent. When Lope died in 1635, his funeral procession went out of its way to pass in front of the convent's grilles so that she could see it.

And there's one last irony in the neighbourhood. In 1835, when streets were renamed after writers, Calle de Francos, the street of Lope's own house, became Calle de Cervantes, and Calle de Cantarranas, the convent's street, became Calle de Lope de Vega. Mesonero, who'd suggested sharing them out differently, wrote that they'd got it wrong. The result: Lope's house ended up on Cervantes Street, and Cervantes' grave on Lope's.

Fact or legend.

  • Fact: Cervantes died on 22 April 1616 on Calle del León and, at his own wish, was buried with the Trinitarian nuns. The parish entry carries the date of the burial, the 23rd.
  • Fact: the church was rebuilt and the remains from the old one were moved into the new; the searches of 1809 and 1870 failed.
  • Fact: in 2015 a reduction containing the remains of seventeen people was found in the crypt of the present church.
  • Cautious hypothesis: that some of those fragments are Cervantes' ("it's possible", with no discrepancies), and that his wife is there too.
  • Unknown: exactly which bones are his. There's no DNA to confirm it.

Where to hear it

Podtour tells this story outside the convent, at the stop "Where is Cervantes buried?", the last on the route Barrio de las Letras: Cervantes, Lope and Quevedo. The vanished house on Calle del León and the mix-up over the street names come in "The vanished house and the mixed-up streets". And Cervantes isn't the only writer in the quarter whose grave has been lost: Lope's is the subject of "Lope's funeral and the common grave".

If you're planning your trip, the Madrid guide has the practical side covered.

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