
Lisbon's Baixa: from Terreiro do Paço to the Rossio
On the morning of All Saints' Day 1755, an Englishman was writing a letter when the table began to shake; not long after, from the riverbank, he saw the Tagus rise like a mountain.
Twelve stops through lower Alfama, from the Conceição Velha to the Museu do Fado: a church with another church's door, a palace that became a salt cod warehouse, an olive tree with a Nobel laureate's ashes, a fountain whose spouts were shared out by status, sex and skin colour, a Jewish quarter with a curfew, and how fado went from the tavern to the professional licence card.

Lower Alfama lived off the river and its water: quays, fountains, baths and tanneries. This walk starts at a church that carries another church's door and a third one's name, built over a synagogue that stood in a different street. It passes a palace covered in diamond points that smelled of salt cod for decades, and the olive tree where Saramago lies, then enters the neighbourhood by the fountain where a regulation of 1551 shared out the spouts by status, sex and the colour of your skin. It carries on through the Jewish quarter of the evening bell, the fishermen's church and the streets of the knife-carrying faia, and ends at the Museu do Fado, once a water pumping station, with what happened to fado when the State decided to keep an eye on it.
An outline of the walk. The full stories are in the app.
Open a marker to see its page. Use two fingers to move the map on mobile.
Walking directions are based on mapped pedestrian routes. Check local access and signs; the route is not an accessibility guarantee. Times are approximate.
Light over the Tagus, patterned pavements and streets that change gradient without warning. Lisbon rewards a mixture of walking, shade and a pause to look at the river.

On the morning of All Saints' Day 1755, an Englishman was writing a letter when the table began to shake; not long after, from the riverbank, he saw the Tagus rise like a mountain.

In 1147 a crusader wrote down what he saw at the siege of Lisbon: hunger, the dead left unburied, and a surrender pact broken by looting.

In 1506, in a chapel by the Rossio, someone said the glow on a crucifix was only a candle.

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Download the audio in the app before heading out, then listen offline. Loading the online base map and calculating a new route from your location require a connection.
Every route includes Spanish and British English. The English version is adapted for English-speaking travellers, rather than translated word for word.
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