Lower Alfama: From the River to Fado: audio walk in Lisbon

Twelve stops through lower Alfama, from the Conceição Velha to the Museu do Fado: a church with another church's door, a palace that became a salt cod warehouse, an olive tree with a Nobel laureate's ashes, a fountain whose spouts were shared out by status, sex and skin colour, a Jewish quarter with a curfew, and how fado went from the tavern to the professional licence card.

1.12 km · ≈ 46 min · 12 stops · ES / EN

Lower Alfama: From the River to Fado

What this walk is about

Lower Alfama lived off the river and its water: quays, fountains, baths and tanneries. This walk starts at a church that carries another church's door and a third one's name, built over a synagogue that stood in a different street. It passes a palace covered in diamond points that smelled of salt cod for decades, and the olive tree where Saramago lies, then enters the neighbourhood by the fountain where a regulation of 1551 shared out the spouts by status, sex and the colour of your skin. It carries on through the Jewish quarter of the evening bell, the fishermen's church and the streets of the knife-carrying faia, and ends at the Museu do Fado, once a water pumping station, with what happened to fado when the State decided to keep an eye on it.

Start
The borrowed doorway
Finish
A licence to sing fado
Who it is for
A walk for anyone curious about social history and fado and music. You don’t need any prior knowledge.
Languages
Spanish and British English
Underfoot
The walk is mostly level. The route notes mention stairs or steps on the walk or its approaches.
Themes
The Earthquake and the New CityMinorities, the Inquisition and MemoryFado, Poets and Cafés

The route, stop by stop

An outline of the walk. The full stories are in the app.

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  1. 1

    The borrowed doorway

  2. 2

    Diamonds and cod

  3. 3

    The olive tree from Azinhaga

  4. 4

    A boat beneath the square

  5. 5

    A different spout for different people

  6. 6

    The Jewish quarter at the evening bell

  7. 7

    The parish that moved house

  8. 8

    The archangel's fishermen

  9. 9

    A knife and a guitar

  10. 10

    Baths, leather and a duke

  11. 11

    Bronze horses and a water pump

  12. 12

    A licence to sing fado

Walking directions are based on mapped pedestrian routes. Check local access and signs; the route is not an accessibility guarantee. Times are approximate.

Lisbon, before you go

Light over the Tagus, patterned pavements and streets that change gradient without warning. Lisbon rewards a mixture of walking, shade and a pause to look at the river.

More walks nearby

Good to know

Nyhavn canal, Copenhagen
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