Montparnasse: From the Cafés to the Cemetery: audio walk in Paris

Four cafés at a crossroads, a bar round the corner and a Breton house — and, ten minutes away, the cemetery where many of their customers lie: the Balzac nobody wanted, the policeman who collected painters, the first bar that never closed, the Bretons off the train, Brancusi, Cortázar, Vallejo and Baudelaire.

1.29 km · ≈ 50 min · 12 stops · ES / EN

Montparnasse: From the Cafés to the Cemetery

What this walk is about

You start in front of a Balzac that scandalised Paris and that Rodin never saw in bronze. Within a hundred metres of boulevard stand the Rotonde, the Select, La Coupole and the Dôme, and each has its own story: the taxi in Hemingway's novel, the police captain who sorted out papers for foreign painters, the American bar that stayed open all night, the coal store turned Art Deco temple. In Rue Delambre, the doorway where Hemingway met Fitzgerald and, in the same street, the Mission Bretonne: the other Montparnasse, the thousands of Bretons who stepped off the train at the station next door to dig the Métro or go into service in wealthy homes, while the Americans raised their glasses. Then you go through the cemetery gate: a street cuts it in two, a Russian student sleeps beneath Brancusi's most famous kiss, Cortázar is left Métro tickets, Vallejo half-predicted his own death and Baudelaire shares a grave with the stepfather he hated.

Start
The Balzac statue nobody wanted
Finish
Baudelaire between a grave and a cenotaph
Who it is for
For another visit, when you want to look beyond the familiar sights. A walk for anyone curious about 20th-century literature and art. A walk for readers of Latin American literature (Cortázar, Vallejo).
Languages
Spanish and British English
Underfoot
The walk is mostly level. There are cobbles or uneven surfaces.
Themes
Artists, Writers and CafésNeighbourhoods and Everyday Life

The route, stop by stop

An outline of the walk. The full stories are in the app.

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Open a marker to see its page. Use two fingers to move the map on mobile.

  1. 1

    The Balzac statue nobody wanted

  2. 2

    Every taxi goes to La Rotonde

  3. 3

    The new place that never closed

  4. 4

    From coal to Art Deco

  5. 5

    The women smoking pipes

  6. 6

    Where Hemingway met Fitzgerald

  7. 7

    The Breton arrivals at the station

  8. 8

    The cemetery divided by a street

  9. 9

    The Kiss that can't be sold

  10. 10

    Metro tickets for Cortázar

  11. 11

    César Vallejo's Paris in the rain

  12. 12

    Baudelaire between a grave and a cenotaph

Walking directions are based on mapped pedestrian routes. Check local access and signs; the route is not an accessibility guarantee. Times are approximate.

Paris, before you go

Paris works best a neighbourhood at a time. Combine a walk, a pause and another look: the distances on the map can be deceptive.

More walks nearby

Good to know

Nyhavn canal, Copenhagen
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