Belleville, from the Boulevard to the Viewpoint: audio walk in Paris

Climb the hill that was once the tavern of Paris: the Courtille carnival, two streets that both claim the last barricade of the Commune, a tavern keeper so famous someone tried to put him on the stage, Perec's street turned into a park, Willy Ronis's viewpoint and Piaf's plaque.

1.53 km · ≈ 53 min · 12 stops · ES / EN

Belleville, from the Boulevard to the Viewpoint

What this walk is about

You start on the boulevard where the tax wall once stood. Beyond it lay Belleville, its cheap wine and the carnival that came staggering back down into Paris. Where two streets meet, you'll hear how the Commune ended, with one man alone on a barricade and a young volunteer nurse nobody ever saw again. Then comes Ramponeau, the tavern keeper, the lawsuit Voltaire turned into satire, and the argument over whether piquette was really bad wine. You walk into the park along a street that no longer exists, the street of Georges Perec's childhood, climb beside the cascade to the Willy Ronis viewpoint, and finish in front of a plaque that says Piaf was born on that very pavement. It isn't quite true, and she knew it.

Start
The carnival beyond the city wall
Finish
Was Édith Piaf really born on the pavement?
Who it is for
For another visit, when you want to look beyond the familiar sights. A walk for anyone curious about social history and the Commune and literature, photography and song.
Languages
Spanish and British English
Underfoot
The walk has slopes or changes in level. The route notes mention stairs or steps on the walk or its approaches.
Themes
Revolutions, Uprisings and the CommuneArtists, Writers and CafésNeighbourhoods and Everyday LifeMemory and the Wounds of the 20th Century

The route, stop by stop

An outline of the walk. The full stories are in the app.

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Open a marker to see its page. Use two fingers to move the map on mobile.

  1. 1

    The carnival beyond the city wall

  2. 2

    The barricade and the ambulance volunteer

  3. 3

    One man in Rue Ramponeau

  4. 4

    The innkeeper who wouldn't become an actor

  5. 5

    Cheap wine and the dance gardens

  6. 6

    The street turned into a park

  7. 7

    Perec's number 24

  8. 8

    Belleville's water, from royal fountains to a cascade

  9. 9

    The vines return to Belleville

  10. 10

    Gypsum, workers and Paris below your feet

  11. 11

    Willy Ronis's staircase

  12. 12

    Was Édith Piaf really born on the pavement?

Walking directions are based on mapped pedestrian routes. Check local access and signs; the route is not an accessibility guarantee. Times are approximate.

Paris, before you go

Paris works best a neighbourhood at a time. Combine a walk, a pause and another look: the distances on the map can be deceptive.

More walks nearby

Good to know

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