The Gran Vía: From Zarzuela to War: audio walk in Madrid

A house stormed in two riots, a zarzuela that mocked a street that never came, a king's first blow of the pickaxe, a phoenix that moved house, the page boy who opened a bar for Hollywood, the knight who ended up in a waltz, the midnight of 10,000 telephones, the skyscraper that was both a target and a censor's office, a huntress goddess aiming at another phoenix, and a palace of music that opened with an orchestra playing for silent films.

1.22 km · ≈ 49 min · 12 stops · ES / EN

The Gran Vía: From Zarzuela to War

What this walk is about

The Gran Vía was sung about before it was built. You start in the Plaza del Rey, in front of a sixteenth-century house stormed in the Esquilache riot and next door to Godoy's, and hear how in 1886 a musical revue turned an avenue that never arrived into a joke: "Well, you'd better wait sitting down." In 1910 a king struck the first blow with a pickaxe beside the church of San José. You carry on past the phoenix that left the Metrópolis, the bar of a former page boy who served three regimes, the real Caballero de Gracia and his oratory, which the pickaxe spared, and the Telefónica skyscraper: the midnight when 10,000 subscribers switched exchanges, and the years when it was a target, a shelter and the censorship office for the foreign correspondents. Then you look up at Diana, the rooftop huntress aiming at a phoenix, and stop at the Palacio de la Música, whose roof collapsed before it opened and where an orchestra played for silent films. You finish in Callao, where the war press stayed.

Start
Two riots on the same corner
Finish
Callao and the Hotel Florida
Who it is for
For anyone interested in the modern city, cinema and architecture. A walk for zarzuela lovers. You don’t need any prior knowledge.
Languages
Spanish and British English
Themes
Writers, Theatre and ShowRiots, Wars and MemoryThe Changing City

The route, stop by stop

An outline of the walk. The full stories are in the app.

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  1. 1

    Two riots on the same corner

  2. 2

    You'd better sit down and wait

  3. 3

    The first pickaxe blow of 1910

  4. 4

    The phoenix that moved

  5. 5

    The bellboy with a bottle museum

  6. 6

    The real Caballero de Gracia

  7. 7

    The chapel saved from demolition

  8. 8

    Midnight at the Telefónica

  9. 9

    The Telefónica building at war

  10. 10

    Diana takes aim at the phoenix

  11. 11

    The palace that collapsed before opening

  12. 12

    Callao and the Hotel Florida

Walking directions are based on mapped pedestrian routes. Check local access and signs; the route is not an accessibility guarantee. Times are approximate.

Madrid, before you go

Madrid makes sense square by square. Leave room for a terrace, an unexpected slope and a proper break when the sunshine gets strong.

More walks nearby

Good to know

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