podtour
At a glance
- Country
- United Kingdom
- Region
- Scotland; Edinburgh is its capital
- Language
- English, with Scottish accents and vocabulary. Hello or hiya; thank you or the informal cheers.
- Currency
- Pound sterling (£)
- Population
- Just over half a million people
- Sockets
- Type G, 230 V; standard British sockets.
- Emergencies
- 999; 112 also works.
- Tap water
- Yes, safe to drink; bring a refillable bottle.
- Card payments
- Cards and contactless payments are widely used, including small purchases.
- Tipping
- Optional; check whether service is included at a restaurant. A tip isn’t normally expected at the pub bar.
- Driving side
- left
When to go
| Season | Approximate temperature | Rain | Daylight | Atmosphere |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Spring | Roughly 3–15 °C; wind can make it feel colder. | Passing showers; relatively dry by local standards. | Days grow rapidly longer. | Gardens in flower; sea mist can drift in. |
| Summer | Roughly 10–19 °C; truly hot days are uncommon. | Rain remains part of the picture. | Long days and light evenings. | Busy, especially during the August festivals. |
| Autumn | Roughly 4–17 °C | Often wet, particularly later in the season. | Daylight shortens quickly. | Early autumn can be pleasant; colourful parks follow. |
| Winter | Roughly 1–8 °C | Cold rain and wind; some frost and snow are possible. | Short days. | Festive lights and Hogmanay, followed by a quieter period. |
- For light and relatively fewer crowds, consider May or September. For the longest days, think late spring and early summer.
- January brings Burns Night suppers with haggis and poetry. February and March bring rugby supporters when Scotland plays at home.
- April brings Beltane’s fire festival to Calton Hill, changing the atmosphere of the hill.
- August means the Fringe and other festivals: theatre, comedy, music and busy streets. Arrange accommodation well ahead.
- December brings Christmas lights and markets, then Hogmanay, Scotland’s New Year celebrations. Expect busy central areas.
Walking the city
- Gradient. The Royal Mile descends from the Castle towards Holyrood. Side alleys, called closes, often contain steep slopes or steps.
- Levels. George IV Bridge and South Bridge pass above the Cowgate. A map can place you beside somewhere when you’re actually above it.
- Underfoot. Cobbles in the Royal Mile, Grassmarket and Dean Village, plus worn stone steps in closes, become slippery when wet.
- Access. The Old Town can be demanding with a wheelchair or pushchair. Check the particular route rather than assuming a narrow close has a step-free way through.
- Wind and weather. Bridges, hills and open streets can be exposed. Layers and a hood help more than an umbrella in a gust. Sea mist, the haar, can cool a bright day.
- Distances. Central routes can be linked on foot. Leith and Portobello are better treated as separate journeys; Arthur’s Seat is a proper hill walk.
- Crossings. Traffic keeps left. Use pedestrian crossings and watch for trams and buses as well as cars.
- Daily rhythm. A substantial breakfast is common. Leave room for dinner before a very late return; long summer evenings can make it easy to lose track.
Getting there and around
- The airport connects to the centre by tram, bus and taxi.
- Waverley lies between the Old and New Towns; getting to surrounding streets involves a change of level. Haymarket is to the west.
- Central Podtour routes work well on foot. Use public transport for a longer outward trip or a return when your legs are tired.
- At bus stops, signal clearly when you want the bus to stop. Let people off first; a thank you to the driver is common.
- Don’t underestimate a short uphill connection. Allow a pause rather than rushing to the next route.
The neighbourhoods
| Neighbourhood | What it's like | Who it suits | Our routes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Upper Old Town: Castlehill, Lawnmarket and High Street | Tall stone buildings, closes and the upper Royal Mile. | A first visit, with plenty of activity outside. | The Royal Mile, from the Castle to St Giles Free; Ghosts, Witches and Legends of the Old Town |
| Grassmarket and Victoria Street | A broad square below the Castle and a curving street climbing from it. | Pub atmosphere and medical history. | Burke and Hare and Edinburgh Medicine |
| Greyfriars and the university quarter | Historic churchyard, university buildings and major museums. | Legends, medicine and indoor breaks. | Burke and Hare and Edinburgh Medicine; Ghosts, Witches and Legends of the Old Town |
| Canongate and Holyrood | The lower Royal Mile towards parliament, palace and park. | A quieter continuation of the main street. | Canongate and Holyrood: the other Royal Mile |
| New Town | Straight streets, squares and Georgian stone façades. | Architecture, literature and a central base. | New Town: from St Andrew Square to Stevenson's Street |
| Calton Hill and Waverley | A monument-filled hill close to the station. | Views and stories about ideas. | The Athens of the North: from the North Bridge to Calton Hill |
| Dean Village and Stockbridge | Former mill village in a river gorge, with local streets nearby. | A quieter walk beside the water. | Dean Village and the Water of Leith |
What to try
| Dish or drink | What it is |
|---|---|
| Haggis, neeps and tatties | Seasoned sheep offal with oats, accompanied by mashed turnip and potato; vegetarian versions also exist. |
| Scottish breakfast | Eggs, bacon, sausage, black pudding and accompaniments, sometimes including haggis. |
| Cullen skink | Creamy smoked haddock soup with potato and onion. |
| Scotch broth | Broth with barley, vegetables and mutton or lamb. |
| Stovies | Potatoes and onions cooked with leftover meat. |
| Fish supper | Battered fish and chips; supper here describes the combination, not a time of day. |
| Porridge | Oatmeal traditionally made with a little salt. |
| Cranachan | Cream, raspberries, toasted oats, honey and whisky. |
| Tablet | A very sweet, crumbly confection of sugar, condensed milk and butter. |
| Shortbread | Rich, crumbly butter biscuits. |
| Whisky | A dram can range from gentle to heavily smoky; ask for guidance if you’re unsure. |
| Draught beer | Ale is often served at cellar temperature. |
What to pack
- Broken-in shoes with a grippy sole for wet cobbles and worn stone steps.
- A waterproof jacket with a hood and clothes you can layer in any season.
- Coat, hat, scarf and gloves in winter; an extra warm layer even in summer.
- Sun protection and sunglasses when needed: cool air doesn’t remove the sun’s strength.
- Standard British type G sockets; visitors using a different plug need an adaptor.
- A small rucksack and refillable bottle; lighter luggage helps on the steps.
- For Arthur’s Seat, bring footwear suitable for a hill path and choose another day if conditions are poor.
- Download the routes you want before leaving: Podtour works offline.
For the trip
Customs and common mistakes
- Scotland is part of the UK; Scottish doesn’t mean English.
- Respect the queue. A pub bar may have no visible line, but people still have a turn.
- In a pub, ordering at the bar is common; check how service works rather than assuming table service.
- Cheers can mean thank you or goodbye. Aye means yes, wee means small, and kirk means church.
- A close is a narrow alley: it may also be a route to somebody’s front door.
- Use crossings and keep tram tracks clear.
- Give residents space on stairs and in narrow entrances when taking photographs.
- Look at Greyfriars Bobby without rubbing the bronze nose. Monuments wear away through repeated touching.
If it rains (or it's very hot)
- The free The Royal Mile, from the Castle to St Giles Free is compact, but still outdoors. St Giles and the Castle offer separate interior visits nearby; wet cobbles need care.
- Canongate and Holyrood: the other Royal Mile finishes near the palace and Scottish Parliament, which can be separate visits.
- Burke and Hare and Edinburgh Medicine passes the National Museum of Scotland and finishes near Surgeons’ Hall, useful for planning indoor time.
- Leave the exposed hill on The Athens of the North: from the North Bridge to Calton Hill and slippery riverside paths on Dean Village and the Water of Leith for kinder conditions.
- In warm weather, take breaks in the Meadows or Princes Street Gardens, with sun protection.
Itineraries with Podtour
Leave room for breaks and visits inside: these plans suggest no more than two routes each day.
Days Plan
1 day
Day 1: the free The Royal Mile, from the Castle to St Giles Free, followed downhill by Canongate and Holyrood: the other Royal Mile. Leave room for an optional Castle visit before starting or a palace visit at the lower end.
2 days
Day 1: The Royal Mile, from the Castle to St Giles Free and Canongate and Holyrood: the other Royal Mile. Day 2: The Athens of the North: from the North Bridge to Calton Hill, then New Town: from St Andrew Square to Stevenson's Street, coming down from Calton Hill towards St Andrew Square.
3 days
Days 1 and 2: follow the plan above. Day 3: Ghosts, Witches and Legends of the Old Town and Burke and Hare and Edinburgh Medicine, both centred on the Old Town. If you prefer a quieter day, replace both with Dean Village and the Water of Leith.
What to see with Podtour
marks stops on the free route. Listening outside doesn’t include admission to the building.
| Place | Why go | Route and stop |
|---|---|---|
| Castle Esplanade | Start beneath the Castle and look at a rock that shaped the city. | The Royal Mile, from the Castle to St Giles Free · “Castle Esplanade and Half Moon Battery” |
| Edinburgh Castle | Hear about a cannon with a travelling history from the route’s exterior stop. | The Royal Mile, from the Castle to St Giles Free · “The cannon that burst while saluting: Mons Meg” |
| Gladstone’s Land | Look at a tall merchant’s house and the message in its façade. | The Royal Mile, from the Castle to St Giles Free · “Gladstone’s Land” |
| Brodie’s Close | Meet a respectable man whose nights told another story. | The Royal Mile, from the Castle to St Giles Free · “Brodie’s Close” |
| Heart of Midlothian | A heart in the paving marks something no longer standing. | The Royal Mile, from the Castle to St Giles Free · “Heart of Midlothian and the Old Tolbooth” |
| Parliament Square | Look beyond the cathedral to the stories of its surrounding square. | The Royal Mile, from the Castle to St Giles Free · “Parliament Square and Knox’s grave” |
| Mercat Cross | Find the place where public announcements and public power met. | The Royal Mile, from the Castle to St Giles Free · “Mercat Cross” |
| City Chambers and Mary King’s Close | Hear how an old street beneath the city acquired its stories. | Ghosts, Witches and Legends of the Old Town · “City Chambers and Mary King’s Close” |
| Greyfriars Bobby statue | Separate the little dog’s documented story from later additions. | Ghosts, Witches and Legends of the Old Town · “Greyfriars Bobby statue” |
| Greyfriars Kirkyard | Consider why a churchyard once needed people to keep watch. | Burke and Hare and Edinburgh Medicine · “Guardians of the dead” |
| Grassmarket | Hear how punishment and medical teaching became connected. | Burke and Hare and Edinburgh Medicine · “A body a year: the gallows and anatomy” |
| Surgeons’ Hall | A grand façade introduces stories of anatomy and medicine; the museum is a separate visit. | Burke and Hare and Edinburgh Medicine · “Surgeons’ Hall” |
| Scottish Parliament | Look at a public building with its own architectural language. | Canongate and Holyrood: the other Royal Mile · “Scottish Parliament, Holyrood” |
| Palace of Holyroodhouse | Two apparently matching towers open a story of royal life. | Canongate and Holyrood: the other Royal Mile · “Palace of Holyroodhouse” |
| Scott Monument | See how a writer came to receive a monument like this. | New Town: from St Andrew Square to Stevenson's Street · “The carpenter and a novelist’s cathedral” |
| 17 Heriot Row | Look from the street at a childhood home with stories beyond its windows. | New Town: from St Andrew Square to Stevenson's Street · “Leerie and the cabinetmaker with a double life” |
| Calton Hill | Use a wide view to approach a different way of thinking about time. | The Athens of the North: from the North Bridge to Calton Hill · “No vestige of a beginning” |
| Old Calton Burial Ground | Discover a philosopher’s farewell beside his unusual tomb. | The Athens of the North: from the North Bridge to Calton Hill · “Hume and Charon: Hume’s tomb” |
| Dean Village | See the relationship between the river and the mills it powered. | Dean Village and the Water of Leith · “The wheel and the weir” |
| St Bernard’s Well | A small temple above the river opens a story of supposed healing. | Dean Village and the Water of Leith · “Edinburgh’s worst-tasting water” |