
Gaudí and Modernisme on Passeig de Gràcia
You start in front of la Pedrera, which was born to ridicule: one magazine asked whether there had been an earthquake there, and another called it a quarry.
The town that was Catalonia's second city: rumba and a chimney with no factory, the bell that rang in 1870 and its legend, the archive that was lost, the architect with no qualification, a festa major that, tradition has it, began at a farmhouse, squares that change their names with every regime, shelters dug by the neighbours, and the square where Rodoreda's novel begins.

You start in Plaça del Raspall, with two explanations for its name and rumba in its streets, and carry on to the chimney of a factory that burned down and the market its owner built. In Plaça de la Vila, three stops: the civic tower whose bell rang the alarm against conscription in 1870 (what's fact and what's legend), the archive that begins that year because the earlier papers were lost, and the architect, a friend of Gaudí's, who never qualified and signed with someone else's name. In Plaça del Sol, the festa major that, tradition has it, began at a farmhouse, and the August nights when the Nova Cançó filled the square. Then, Gràcia at war: a shelter that was meant to become public baths and ended up under a car park, a square named after a queen that ended up celebrating her fall, the neighbourhood assemblies held in a cinema, and a square once called Ferrer i Guàrdia. You finish in Plaça del Diamant: the jeweller who named the streets after precious stones, the dance where Rodoreda sets the start of her novel, and the shelter the neighbours dug by night, twelve metres down. Bombing and deaths are told without sensationalism.
An outline of the walk. The full stories are in the app.
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Walking directions are based on mapped pedestrian routes. Check local access and signs; the route is not an accessibility guarantee. Times are approximate.
A city worth looking up for, with pavements worth watching too. Between narrow lanes, long avenues and a break by the sea, leave room in the day to sit down.

You start in front of la Pedrera, which was born to ridicule: one magazine asked whether there had been an earthquake there, and another called it a quarry.

Walk round Barcelona's most famous block without queuing.

You start at Canaletas, where La Rambla was a stream bed running beside the city wall, and where Barça's titles are celebrated today.

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